Christine Rivera's Brussels Sprouts in the Style of Elotes

If you're familiar with elotes you know that they're a summertime treat--traditional Mexican street food in the form of corn on the cob that's been grilled to smoky perfection, sprinkled lavishly with salt and chile powder, then slathered with mayo or crema, and topped with cotija cheese and lime juice. One crunchy bite yields layers of popping flavors and textures.

Of course, corn is summer crop. So what to do when it's unavailable? Galaxy Taco's chef de cuisine Christine Rivera says take the basic concept and extend it to other vegetables--in this case, Brussels sprouts.

I recently spent a morning with Rivera, a charming and driven San Diego native who has been working with chef/owner Trey Foshee for several years. Originally an elementary school counselor as part of the Early Mental Health Initiative, Rivera took up cooking as a de-stresser from work. It was something she picked up from her dad, whose Tijuana family are big home cooks. One of her family favorites is empanadas made with flour tortillas and then fried.

Rivera took culinary classes at Grossmont College and found she loved it so much she started hunting for work in restaurants and enrolled in the school's Culinary Arts Program. She began in the time-honored tradition of restaurant novices as a dish washer--for her it was at a local Red Lobster. From there, she started prepping at Kensington Grill under chef JC Colón--all while attending the Grossmont program. In the summers she worked at the Del Mar Race Track for Premier Foods, "turning and burning," as she described it. When Rivera learned that George's at the Cove was hiring, she applied for a job. Her interview with Foshee led to a job at George's Ocean Terrace.

"I loved it," she says. "I loved the culture and the pace." After a year and a half they moved her to George's California Modern to work the grill and hot line stations. When Foshee started planning Galaxy Taco he wanted her to be his chef there and began training her in how to run a kitchen--everything from inventory and systems to hiring.

"One year before Galaxy Taco opened, Trey talked to me about it. One of the things he wanted to do was make masa from scratch so we started experimenting with it. We went on a crusade to make it the best possible. And we focused on developing the menu."

Rivera opened the restaurant with Foshee last summer. In fact, it's become known for its organic blue corn masa, which Rivera makes daily. "I love making the masa and I'm excited to do it every day. I love the smell as it comes out of the grinder."

Rivera manages day-to-day operations and collaborates with Foshee on recipe ideas. "I've loved every single minute of it," she says with a grin. "It's not easy but it's fun. I learn so much from Trey. He's a chef. He's a restaurant owner. He has so many different roles. How he balances everything, including his family life, is pretty incredible."

For the Brussels sprouts dish, currently on the menu, the idea was to create the same flavor profile as traditional elotes, but use vegetables currently in season. I love the charred, smoky flavor the roasting gives the Brussels sprouts. Combining them with the heat and richness of the Spicy Chipotle Mayo, the acid of the lime juice and the salty cheese creates a lively bite that makes you just keep digging in. It brightens the fundamental earthiness of the Brussels sprouts. I can see making this dish with corn kernels, with cauliflower, string beans, carrots, and baby artichokes.

While the finishing of the dish is done in a cast iron skillet, Rivera pre-cooks the Brussels sprouts to cut the working time. Here she roasts them in a pan with olive oil. She also makes the Spicy Chipotle Mayo ahead of time so that the flavors come together. Be sure to get everything prepped before starting because the stovetop cooking goes very quickly.

Brussel sprouts in the Style of Elotes (Street Corn)

Christine Rivera of Galaxy Taco

(printable recipe)

4 to 6 servings as a side dish

You can use Brussels sprouts—or other vegetables you enjoy—to make this dish when corn is out of season. Or instead of corn, if you like. If you make it with corn, you can grill the corn on the cob and add the ingredients when you serve the corn (traditional style) or remove the corn from the cob and prepare it as directed below. Be sure to mix up the Spicy Chipotle Mayo ahead of time so the flavors will meld. Once you get started with the cooking process it will take about five minutes so you want everything prepped and ready to go.

1 pound Brussels sprouts, cleaned, trimmed, and halved

Extra virgin olive oil

¼  cup cilantro, chopped, reserving 1 teaspoon for garnish

Salt to taste

1 tablespoon Cotija cheese plus 1 teaspoon for garnish

1 lime, cut in half

Spicy Chipotle Mayo (see below for recipe and make ahead of time*)   

Spicy Chipotle Mayo

1 cup mayonnaise

1 chile from a can of chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (you can find this in your local supermarket)

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon lime juice

Combine and mix all ingredients together. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toss Brussels sprouts in extra virgin olive oil and salt. Roast Brussels sprouts for about 15 to 20 minutes (depending on size) and let them chill.

Place a pan on the stove at a low medium heat, add extra virgin olive oil. Once the pan is hot add Brussels sprouts. Toss them to cook evenly, then add cotija cheese, cilantro (saving some for a garnish), and lime juice from half a lime. 

Stir for about 5 minutes on low to medium heat. Remove from heat and add the chipotle mayo. Stir well to insure that the mayo is evenly distributed. Place in a bowl and sprinkle the reserved cotija cheese and cilantro on top and squeeze the second half of the lime. Enjoy!

Galaxy Taco is located at 2259 Avenida de la Playa in La Jolla.

Print Page

Erizo Cebicheria Redux

Last April, I wrote about a splendid day I enjoyed in Tijuana that included lunch at Erizo Cebicheria. It was one of those meals that made me shake my head in disbelief at the magic of the seafood I was enjoying. The meal had one of my lunch companions, Chef Trey Foshee of George's at the Cove, transfixed. We just couldn't get over the flavors, the creativity, and the presentation of each dish.

So, when owner Javier Plascencia told me that he had redone the restaurant since then, I had to return to see just how it could possibly have improved. A couple of weeks ago, my friend Dan Nattrass of Catalina Offshore Products suggested another day trip down to Tijuana, this time with Chad White, executive chef and partner at Sea Rocket Bistro. After checking out the fish markets and doing some major damage at Mercato Hidalgo, the public market, we headed over to Erizo Cebicheria. And, yes, change had happened.

First, the size of the place has about tripled. Plascencia also added a small fish market and expanded the kitchen. But what truly struck me was the new decor. It's got a rustic yet modern feel and there was a strange familiarity to the tables and the materials in general that I couldn't put my finger on until Plascencia told us that the design was inspired by the Popotla fishing village in Rosarito, just below the old Fox Studios. Popotla is a favorite place of mine. To say it's rustic would be elevating it, but that's part of its charm as a collection of about two dozen "restaurants." My favorite was Mariscos España. It's on the water and you can watch the fishing pongas pull in with their catch. Erizo Cebicheria now plays off of that casual, seaside feel with white-washed looking tables and patio chairs, but more importantly, clever dishes that highlight the freshness of the seafood.

While the decor has changed, the menu has remained much the same, although with an expanded kitchen the restaurant can now do more.

We started with Chiles Gueros con Camaron, yellow jalapeños stuffed with chopped shrimp and topped with a stunning relish of carrots, red onion, and cilantro.

Chef Chad White about to dig in to the Chiles Gueros con Camaron

From there, the dishes we ordered kept coming. At the fish markets, the three of us were enchanted by chocolate clams, a large bi-valve in a creamy brown shell. And there they were at Erizo's fish market. So we each ordered one and when they arrived, the presentation was so beautiful we could barely stand to dig in and disturb it.

The cooks chopped up the clam to make a light ceviche with tomatoes and cucumbers blended with ponzu sauce. It rested on a plate filled with sea salt and accented with a sprig of salty sea bean. The clam was tender and sweet and complemented by the sweet crunch of the cucumber and the citrusy saltiness of the ponzu.

Then there was a gorgeous Calla de Acha, large sea scallops presented with cucumber, red onion, chile sauce, and chicharron.

The dish is presented on a platter but the server portions out individual servings.

Each bit contains a large piece of scallop, slices of red onion and cucumber, heated by the chili sauce and finished off by the crunchy pork crackling. It's absurdly delicious.

One of Trey, Dan, and my favorite dishes from our first visit was Chicharron de Atun and Dan and I insisted that Chad had to try it. This is a riff on a Chinese favorite, Orange Chicken.

It looks at first like the sweet crispy fried protein you'd expect to eat with white rice. But instead, these are pieces of tuna coated in rice flour blended with cayenne and chile de arbol powder, fried and served with pico de gallo, guac, and corn tortillas.

We also enjoyed a beautiful Ceviche Verde con Camaron -- a shrimp ceviche with cilantro, serrano and habanero chilis, tomatillo, avocado, and red onion.

It sounds like it would be impossibly spicy, but, in fact, the heat is carefully controlled and serves to flavor not enflame.

I was taken with the idea of an oyster tempura taco, and out it came -- crispy and crunchy with a tender oyster in the middle. Add some spicy salsa with ginger, a little kimchi, a sprinkling of lettuce, and a dab of mayo-based sauce, and you've got a great taco treat.

We thought we were done, but we'd forgotten that we'd ordered octopus, another favorite dish from our first visit. Again, the octopus was mesquite grilled, stunning with a tomatillo and habanero salsa.

Prepared poorly, octopus can be your worst chewy nightmare. This pulpo clearly had been well braised before grilling. It was tender and smoky, a lovely conclusion to the meal.

Erizo Cebicheria is located at Ave Sonora No 3808-11 just off Blvd Agua Caliente.

Print Page

6th St.: Tijuana's Seafood Alley

You'd expect a major seafood district to be ocean side, but in Tijuana, it's  downtown along a stretch of 6th Street. There are something like 20 individual markets, some catering primarily to the public, others to restaurants. But even mid-morning on a weekday, the area is bustling, looking like a street ceviche party waiting to happen.

Okay, the day I was there was the Thursday before Easter, so massive shopping in anticipation of the holiday was in full force. But the ceviche party metaphor remains. Parked on the street and included in many of the shops are stalls brimming with all the makings of a fresh ceviche--chiles, tomatoes, celery, cilantro, onions, limes--the ultimate one-stop shopping.

Much of the fish sold by the wholesalers there go to Chinese buyers, but you'd never know that by the throngs of locals there to buy everything from clams and octopus to red snapper and grouper. I was there with Catalina Offshore Products' Dan Nattrass, who visits regularly to buy for the company which has a warehouse a block away, and Chef Trey Foshee of George's at the Cove. With every turn, I could almost see the wheels in his head spinning as he took in the possibilities and periodically asked Dan to get him some of this and some of that for the restaurant. It was an object lesson in culinary creativity at work.

Me? I was gawking at the brightly colored fish, the brilliant mix of seafood cut up and sitting in bins for Caldo de Siete Mares (Seven Seas Soup), and all the people patiently waiting their turn to be served by (mostly) men in blood-stained aprons butchering fish. It's a remarkable scene and worth a visit if you're planning a day trip to Tijuana.

Dan Nattrass inspecting fish in a wheelbarrow

Burdillo--used a lot for fish tacos

Brown Baqueta--a member of the grouper family

Brilliant red Huachinango at Las Playas, one of the more popular fish markets

Sienas stacked up in Las Playas -- frequently used at George's California Modern

A Cabrella, or leopard grouper. Dan says only 1 percent turn this bright orange color.

Sorting fish at Las Playas

A split fish head, perfect for grilling, according to Trey. The best part? The tender cheeks.

Wholesale workers showing off the catch of the day, a black sea bass

Print Page

Market Bliss: Tijuana's Mercado Hidalgo

A good public market both embraces and reveals the essence of its community. Tijuana's Mercado Hidalgo is a wild kaleidoscope of colors everywhere you turn, from the vibrant produce to the crazy cartoon piñatas. It's charged with spicy, sweet, and earthy scents--of dried ancho, morita, and chipotle chiles mingling with chicharones and what used to be called penny candy. It's a vision of rich textures of luscious moles, sticky candied fruits, and silky smooth beans. In short, Mercado Hidalgo is utterly Tijuana. Not the violent Tijuana we've been hearing about in the news for the past several years, but a city with an appreciation of traditional foods that appeal to the eye as well as the taste buds.

I hadn't been to the Mercado in many years, but the memories of the place came back in a rush last week as we--Dan Nattrass of Catalina Offshore Products, Chef Trey Foshee of Georges at the Cove, and I--pulled into the parking lot of the U-shaped market, anchored by a chapel honoring the Virgin of Guadalupe.

Produce stalls abundant with fresh peppers, spiny chayote squash, and vibrant orange papaya sit alongside stalls overflowing with multi-colored beans and lentils, spices, dried chiles, and barrels of tamarind pods and piloncillo (unrefined brown sugar pressed in the shape of a cone). There are vendors selling rustic pottery, granite molcajetes, and cheap but appealing kitchenware. And, cheese shops with some of the saltiest cotija, enchilado, and queso fresco around.

 
Trucks pull in and huge, bloody sides of beef and pork are lugged off by smiling butcher shop workers. There's a tortilleria filled with men at conveyor belts pulling off and stacking small corn tortillas while others are mixing up the masa. Another stall is crammed with spices and intriguing culinary chemicals lined up in large glass canisters on high shelves and dozens of different varieties of wood chips in bins--we're still trying to figure out what they're for.

At a produce stand in the middle of the parking lot, primed for tourists taking photos, a hefty guy wielding a machete is rapidly taking apart a coconut. In fact, unlike most markets, where managers scurry over to make me put away my camera, people were calling to me to take their picture.

And, I did. Here's just a sampling of the stunning wares I saw and the people working the stalls. For this market junkie, it was pure bliss. I intend to return soon to buy bags of dried chiles and spices, some mole, maybe even a coconut.

 

 

 

Mercado Hidalgo is located in downtown Tijuana at Blvd. Taboada and Av Independencia.



Print Page

Tijuana's Erizo Cebicheria

I spent the day today in Tijuana, where I haven't been in years. Like many people, the troubles (read violence) in recent years have kept me away. But when my friend Dan Nattrass of Catalina Offshore Products called me with an invitation to go down with Chef Trey Foshee of George's at the Cove to visit fish markets and the Central Mercado I couldn't resist. Then Trey sent us a note suggesting we try Erizo Cebicheria for lunch. It was the makings of a perfect day.

And it was. More on the markets in the future. Lunch alone was worth the drive. The restaurant is owned by the Plascencia family. I'm a fan of son Javier's Bonita  restaurant Romesco, but the family has several highly regarded ones in Tijuana. Erizo Cebicheria is located in the upscale Chapultepec neighborhood. It's bright and modern and a great spot for a casual lunch if you love seafood.

Javier sent me a list of his recommendations of what to order off the menu. We followed it and weren't disappointed. We had our favorites but all were unique and delicious--and made us wonder how it is that no one in San Diego is doing anything remotely similar.

So, take a look at these and then make a trip there yourself. The restaurant is located at Ave Sonora No 3808-11 just off Blvd Agua Caliente.

Octopus Carpaccio with nopales and avocado

Sea Urchin Chupe--like sea urchin nectar

 

 

Tuna and Machaca Tostada (so elegant a "fusion" dish, flavored with ponzu)

Pulpo (octopus) Mesquite (one of our favorites)

Chicharon de Tuna (this was another huge favorite)

The Chicharon (little pieces of tuna somehow made dry inside with a sweet fried exterior reminiscent of orange chicken) served taco style with guacamole and salsa

Swordfish Pibel topped with grilled pineapple, then eaten taco style with guacamole, salsa verde, and pickled red onions

Blueberry Tamal in Banana Leaf (Stunning, smooth and all blueberry)

Print Page

Summer Fest 2010: Week 2 -- Corn

 
Well, here we are at week 2 of the foodathon that is Summer Fest 2010! I was amazed at how many people posted recipes last week and such wonderful ones at that! Who knew you could do so many deliciously original things with cukesnzukes!

This week we tackle corn. Now I'm a big label reader and like many label readers I'm frustrated with the amount of high fructose corn syrup in packaged products. And I prefer the cattle I eat to dine on grass instead of -- corn. In fact, I'm generally ticked off that so much of our agriculture is centered around corn subsidies given to the mega-growers.

And then summer hits and all I want is to munch on corn on the cob. Or scrape it off the cob and eat it raw in salads. I especially love the way gorgeous red corn kernels visually ignite grains or pasta or other vegetables.

I'll slather cobs in softened butter and garlic, wrap them in foil and put them on the grill. Then roll them in Cotija cheese and sprinkle with Tajin or Tamarula sauce. In fact, I had something similar on the 4th of July made by the terrific MIHO gastro truck.

In my world, salsa suddenly needs corn. So does my gazpacho. I crave corn and scallion tamales from the farmers market. But, what I look forward to most of all is a visit to George's at the Cove for executive chef/partner Trey Foshee's sweet and creamy Chino Corn Risotto with Chanterelles and Burrata. It's the kind of dish you don't just want to eat, you want to dive into the bowl and eat your way out.

 
Awhile back I did a story on Trey and the restaurant. Trey gave me the recipe for his risotto, which I sent to my editor but for some reason it wasn't published. So, you get it here.

Chino Corn Risotto with Chanterelles and Burrata

Trey Foshee’s corn risotto celebrates the bounty of summer corn. It makes for a wonderful first course followed by grilled chicken or fish and lots of fresh summer vegetables. Be sure to use fresh corn, if possible on the day it was picked. Burrata, a fresh Italian cheese that combines mozzarella and cream, adds to the decadence of the dish.

Makes 6 appetizer-course servings.

Risotto Base

2 Tbs. butter

¼ cup onion, minced

8 oz. Carnaroli rice

½ cup white wine

1 ¾ cups hot chicken stock

In a large sauce pot heat the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat, do not brown. Add the rice and start a timer for 18 minutes. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon until they start to sizzle, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and stir until the wine is absorbed. Add one quarter of the hot chicken stock, stir until absorbed and you can see the bottom of the pan when you stir. Add another quarter and follow procedure above, then another quarter more. After 18 minutes add the last quarter, and season. At this point you can either continue on to the to serve section or, pour into a hotel pan and chill. Stir after about 15 minutes. You can hold it at this point for up to 24 hours.

Corn Puree

2 cups very fresh corn kernels

1 ½ cups chicken stock or water

Combine in a small pot and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes, transfer to a blender and blend until smooth, pass through a fine mesh strainer, chill and reserve.

To Serve

2 Tbs. butter

1 cup corn kernels

2 cups risotto Base

1 cup corn puree

½ cup chicken stock, warm

1 cup chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed

1 Tbl. extra virgin olive oil

1 Tbl. butter

6 slices burrata

In a medium sauce pot heat one tablespoon of the butter over medium heat, add the corn kernels and cook until just soft, about 3 minutes. Add the risotto base, corn puree, and chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and stir gently with a wooden spoon. Cook over medium low heat, stirring for 3 to 4 minutes to allow the flavors to meld, add the other tablespoon of butter and stir.

Heat a sauté pan over medium high heat and add the oil. Add the chanterelles and sauté until cooked and lightly browned, add the butter and remove to a warm place.

Spoon the risotto in a shallow bowl, place a slice of burrata on top and spoon the chanterelles around.

Let's see what everyone else is up to this week -- and don't forget to add your own corn recipes in the comments section below! Next up: herbs, greens, and beans...

Nicole at Pinch My Salt: Creamed Corn with Bacon and Rosemary
Margaret at A Way to Garden: Vintage corn Americana slideshow, and no-frills creamed corn
The FN Dish: Creamed Corn-Off: Battle of the Southern Cooks
Alison at Food2: Freezing Corn  
Toby at Healthy Eats: Candied Corn, and 4 more easy recipes
Michelle at Cooking Channel: Browsing Corn Porn   
Judy/Tuscan Diva: Fried Polenta Crostini with Porcini Ragu
Jennifer of Gilded Fork: Corn: Sweet Versatility (history, uses & recipes from cocktails to cornbread)
Chef Mark: Gettin' Corny! (Musings from childhood, tips & fresh-corn recipes)
Caroline at The Wright Recipes: Pickled Corn with Summer Onion and Basil
Paige Orloff of The Sister Project: Life-Changing Corn Pancakes
Tara at Tea and Cookies: Farro Corn Salad with Tomatoes and Herbs
Food Network UK blog: Talking Corn
Shauna at Gluten-Free Girl and the Chef: Sweet Corn Risotto
Tigress at Tigress in a Jam: Cream Corn Scones

Now It's Your Turn!
This collaborative effort won't be much fun without you! The more info we all give, the more we'll all enjoy summer's harvest. Have a recipe or tip that fits any of our weekly themes? Starting with our posts of Wednesday, July 28, for five Wednesdays through 8/25 and possibly longer, you can contribute in various ways, big or small.

• Contribute a whole post, or a comment—whatever you wish. It’s meant to be fun, viral, fluid. No pressure, just delicious. The possibilities:

• Simply leave your tip or recipe or favorite links in the comments below a Summer Fest post on my blog any upcoming Wednesday, and then go visit my collaborators and do the same.

The cross-blog event idea works best when you leave your recipe or favorite links (whether to your own blog or someone else’s) at all the host blogs. That way, they are likely to be seen by the widest audience. Everyone benefits, and then we're all cooking with some great ideas.

Or go big: Publish entire posts of your own if you wish, and grab the big red tomato Summer Fest 2010 badge above (illustrated by Matt of Mattbites). We'll also be tweeting using #summerfood as our hashtag.

Here's the schedule:

• 7/28: cukesnzukes
• 8/4: corn
• 8/11: herbs, greens, and beans
• 8/18: stone fruit
• 8/25 tomatoes
• more to come if we all want it — stay tuned!

Print Page