Catalina Offshore Products Gets Opah Grant

photo courtesy of Catalina Offshore Products

Catalina Offshore Products announced last week that it has been awarded a $139,700 grant from the 2018 National Marine Fisheries Service's Saltonstall-Kennedy Grant Program for a project to grow demand for opah and other underutilized and undervalued species. The project, which could be scaled to a national level, is based on a year-long project that may help increase revenue to local fleets while also offering consumers new options for locally sourced seafood. The project will consist of data collection, roundtables with fishermen and consumers, kitchen workshops, recipe development, culinary demonstrations, and an “Ocean to Table” finale event. During this public showcase, project outcomes will be presented along with a suite of dishes highlighting different culinary applications for opah, as well as other Pacific highly migratory species currently being discarded but identified through research as having market potential.

One of the reasons opah, also known as "moonfish," is an ideal subject for this project is that it is a fish that tends to be caught as incidental or a by-catch of tuna fishing. Historically elusive, Pacific opah has been showing up more frequently in recent years. But instead of being discarded as waste, opah, which can weigh up to 200 pounds, can be enjoyed as food and represent increased profitability to fisherman, who can responsibly harvest it. There's no need to worry about overfishing it since U.S. fisheries are regulated.

Another benefit is that opah can be fully utilized. The belly, the loin, the top back strap, and the adductor/abductor make up most of the fish, and all have unique colors, flavors, and textures and, consequently, unique applications. This is rare; the flesh of other fish species tends to be the same throughout the fish. Below you can see the belly and back tail removed to the right and the section on the left that held the lean scarlet abductor (affectionately called the "tri tip" at COP). The adductor is below the abductor and with its elongated shape, is known as the "tenderloin" given that it looks like a beef or pork tenderloin. The belly is a pale pink and very fatty--and utterly delicious.

photo courtesy Catalina Offshore Products

So, what it comes down to educating the public. Instead of choosing what we already know and buy too much of--salmon, tuna, swordfish, and halibut, for example--we should open our minds to more options that would take pressure off those fisheries.

And, as Tommy Gomes of Catalina Offshore Products, says, "The big picture is to get people to eat beyond the fillet, which is only 20 percent of a fish."

Opah, which is sustainable and versatile, is one of those options. It's also not "fishy" tasting; instead basically a blank canvas for how you want to flavor it. It's also a leaner, healthier protein than red meat--and, when cooking up the abductor, can be used in many of the same applications as red meat. Steak, meatballs, tacos, sausage, and skewers just skim the surface.

Here's a very cool short video of Gomes breaking down a huge opah:



San Diego chefs have understood the value and potential of opah for quite awhile. Big fans of opah include Davin Waite of Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub and Rob Ruiz of The Land and Water Company. The two are engaged with Catalina Offshore Products in the project.

Gomes first encountered opah back in the early 1980s as a fisherman. Working with Koreans, he found that they served the fish pickled, then barbecued on deck, served on skewers with kimchee and rice. "For them it was just an edible piece of meat," he recalled.

So, imagine dining on this poached opah belly made by chef Nick Brune.

photo by Sam Wells

Or, this slab of opah bacon togarashi.

photo courtesy of Catalina Offshore Products

I sliced a piece of the belly and fried it in peanut oil until both sides were a golden brown, then sprinkled it with sea salt. It was like the best fish stick you could imagine--moist and succulent. You can also turn the belly into chicharones. Or grind it with the abductor meat to make a full-flavored burger, meatballs, or meatloaf.

As for the abductor, I cut a portion into pieces and stir fried them with garlic, hoisin sauce, and garlic chili sauce. I had some leftover shrimp chow mein from lunch at Steamy Piggy the day before. So I emptied that into the wok with the opah to heat up for a more protein filled dish.

opah side fillet; photo courtesy of Catalina Offshore Products

Mitch Conniff of Mitch's Seafood in Point Loma, said Gomes, makes corndogs with opah. Chef Miguel Valdez makes opah carne asada and burgers.

Still not sure? Then catch one of Gomes' demos on Saturdays in the Catalina Offshore Products parking lot. Catalina Offshore Products is located at 5202 Lovelock St. in the Morena district.


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2018 Fall San Diego Farm to Fork Week About to Begin

San Diego Farm to Fork Week has now become a tradition. This month marks the third such event, held by Farm to Fork San Diego, a membership organization conceived by Trish Watlington, former owner of The Red Door, that brings farming, fishing, and food awareness to consumers by verifying and promoting local businesses and non-profits that support local farmers and fishermen. San Diego Farm to Fork Week is the signature event of the organization, and runs from September 9th to 15th.

Here's why you want to participate: You'll get dining discounts and special dishes from the participating restaurants. And, it's a chance to try new, locally sourced restaurants, bakeries, and breweries at affordable prices.

"We hope diners will not only experience the fresh flavors and creativity that come from working with local food that’s in season," Watlington said, "but that they will appreciate and become part of the important food supply chain that starts all the way back with seed farmers and extends all the way to chefs, brewers, vintners and ultimately they’ll be proud to support a local, sustainable, accessible and healthy food community."

Among those participating in Farm to Fork Week is Garden Kitchen's chef/owner Coral Fodor Strong. She explained that she's involved to bring additional awareness to what her restaurant is offering in the context of totally supporting local farmers by executing a daily changing menu with what San Diego farmers are growing exactly within a 50-mile radius.

"Farm to Fork SD showcases so many amazing restaurants, chefs and diners that embrace the local food scene, so the upcoming week can bring more attention to those that are truly engaging and supporting our farmers, our fishermen and our community as a whole," she added.

For Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub's chef/owner Davin Waite, it's an opportunity to acknowledge both that San Diego's local farms are a treasure--and that, unfortunately, a lot of them struggle. "We like to be a part of events that recognize and showcase local growers. It's always a pleasure to play with food that comes from local farms, and we always love seeing our names mentioned next to restaurants we love and respect," he said.

Part of the fun of the event is sampling special dishes chefs will be making for it. Robin Ross of Pt. Loma's Cupcakes Squared is featuring a Lemon Fig cupcake giveaway, free with any purchase that week. The figs are sourced from Watlington's Two Forks Farm.

Courtesy of Robin Ross

"I fell in love with the concept of Farm to Fork Week at it's inception," Ross said. "It's a reliable source of information dedicated to showcasing the efforts of businesses, small and large, supporting local farms and food producers. Promoting seasonal eating allows our food to be at peak flavor. I am in hope that Farm to Fork Week will awaken the senses of diners as they partake in events and special
menus provided.   It should be a way of eating, daily, and Farm To Fork San Diego is a wonderful resource."

Like Ross, other chefs will be determining their own discounts, menu items, or prix fixe menus. For example, you can enjoy three exclusively local courses at Garden Kitchen, an omakase tasting menu at Wrench and Rodent, or an heirloom tomato salad with charred strawberries at Juniper & Ivy. And special Farm to Fork Week brews from Bivouac Ciderworks and Benchmark Brewing, made with produce from local farms, will be available all week.

Specifics are posted on each restaurant’s website.

Here's a complete list of who's participating:

Benchmark Brewing
Biga San Diego
Bivouac Cider Works
Blind Lady Alehouse
Ceviche House
Cupcakes Squared
FaVe Tacos
Garden Kitchen
Juniper and Ivy
Kettner Exchange
Land and Water Company
Loaf and Fish Sandwiches
Masters Kitchen and Cocktail
Royale
Tiger!Tiger!
Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub

Along with the restaurant offerings during the week of the 9th will also be a host of other very cool events that begin on September 5 and go through the 17th.

The kick-off event is "Shop with Chefs at Little Italy Wednesday Market": Shop with local chefs including Mike Reidy of Ironside Fish and Oyster, Stevan Novoa of Duckfoot Brewing, Heath Toms of the Glass Door, Chef Juan Carlos Recamier of Ceviche House and D J Tangalin of Bivouac Ciderworks while they show you how to choose the tastiest, freshest ingredients from local farmers ranchers and food makers. Chat with Brijette Romstedt, owner of San Diego Seed company, about her seed-to-table project and how you can grow some of your own food with seeds specifically acclimated for San Diego's climate. There will be free seed samples too!

There will also be a similar event the following Saturday at Tuna Harbor, a Shop Talk Industry Mixer at Bivouac Cider, Garden Kitchen-Benchmark Pairing, Royale-In Good Company Guest Bartenders, a Sea to Fire Dinner at BIGA San Diego, Sunday Asado at Nopalito Farms, and, concludes with the Good Food Showcase on the 17th. You can learn more about each event here.

The big, in-your-face takeaway from Farm to Fork Week, though, isn't just participating in events. It's what we all do once the event is over. 

As Watlington said, "Celebrate every day and every week by supporting your local farmers and fishermen. Support farmers by buying direct at farmers markets or from locally sourced groceries like Stehly Farms Organics. Support fishermen and the environment by buying at Tuna Harbor Dockside market every Saturday. Become a regular at any or all of the restaurant, winery and brewery members and by supporting our business members and local non-profits. Supporting them also supports local farmers and fishermen and a healthy local food system. We’re here, not just to promote certain businesses but to create a community centered around food and food producers. That community depends on the support of all San Diegans." 

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Hagfish at the Wrench & Rodent

I'm torn about telling you too much about hagfish. These slimy sea creatures are truly disturbing and may have you clicking away to read about kale salads or spicy tuna handrolls. But, when prepared right, they are truly delicious, with a terrific crunch.

Gagging yet? Don't go anywhere--or, actually, head over to the crazyass Oceanside sushi restaurant, Wrench & Rodent Seabasstropub, where chef Davin Waite will prepare you a gorgeous dish of grilled hagfish.

The hagfish starts out as a long (perhaps around a foot or so) slim brown eel. They're known as "slime eels" thanks to the defensive goo they shoot out that when mixed with the saltwater becomes a sticky, slippery slime. Think Ghostbusters. They're the vultures of the deep, feeding on dead and dying fish, devouring them from the inside out.

Still with me? Good. Hang around. Trust me, it'll be worth it.

So, Waite gets hagfish periodically from local fishermen and what he does with them is magical. First he skins them, then guts them to remove--get this--five hearts. Yes, the hagfish is a culinary freakshow.

Waite marinates the hagfish in a smooth mix of ponzu, sesame oil, garlic, and salt and pepper, then grills them on mesquite.

The result is a sublime, smoky flavor with that crunch I mentioned before.

Sweet, huh?

Not so much interested in hagfish? How about a foursome of ceviches, served with chicharon instead of tortilla chips?

 Or, a delicate serving of hamachi sashimi with pickled onions? Or other, more traditional sushi and sashimi?

I love this place and now get why my friend Tommy Gomes drives up there sometimes several times a week. It's a funky little place (as you already figured out from the bizarre name) that doesn't even have it's own entrance (walk in through Bull Taco), seating perhaps 50 if the patio is open. But the seafood is mostly local and sustainable and Waite grows much of his own produce in a nearby garden. I almost hate to tell you about it for fear that word of mouth will make it impossible for me to enjoy it in the future. But I'll take the risk. Now, it's your turn to take the risk and order the hagfish.

Wrench & Rodent Seabasstropub is located at 1815 South Coast Highway in Oceanside, inside Bull Taco.


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